Fly fishing contents

Massif Central

Auvergne, Aubrac, Lozère, Aveyron, Cévennes...


This is an occasion to experiment regions usually not visited by foreign tourists. These regions do not feature buoyant attractions like beaches, prestigious vineyards, or rich châteaux like those of the Loire. Land is tough over there and money never was abundant. From these regions are originated most of the French names you can find in Argentina, Mexico or Northern America. Some did quite well like Monsieur Cadillac.

The unfortune of these lands is now the main reason of the touristic success. Visitors like the austère granite farm housing. The well preserved medieval small towns. The huge landscapes with rare agriculture or extensive grazing.


Ardèche Cévènnes - Aveyron Causses Languedoc - Aubrac - Lozère - Allier -

On this page below : - Rough situation map - General presentation of the different subregions of Massif Central - Gastronomie and - Fishing miscellaneous -

Rough situation map of our GourmetFly proposals -

France - Massif Central -

-1- La Sioule - 2 - Auvergne volcanos Salers - 3 - Upper Loire, Allier - 4 - Aubrac - 5 -Lozère - 6 - Ardèche, Cévènnes - 7- Aveyron, Causses - 8 - Languedoc - 9 - Corrèze, Plateau de Millevache - 10 - Périgord, Dordogne -


How to choose, where to go ?

an attempt of classification



The south

Particularly suited for the early season

In March, April and early May, if you are arriving from Paris, you have a neat feeling that springtime comes earlier there. Lots of new green leaves, lots of blooming trees also. Water level much lower than in the rest of France. Sweaters left in the car on most sunny days.

We are proposing three excellent sites with great touring features in Ardèche-Cévennes, in Aveyron and in the backcountry of Montpellier in the Languedoc.

Please follow us in Ardèche Cévènnes or in Aveyron Causses & Languedoc.

On the map, Ardèche Cévennes was noted # 6, Aveyron Causses # 7 and Languedoc # 8


Aubrac & Lozère

Our star destinations

We have a special feeling for the Lozère in which are found subregions named plateau de l'Aubrac, Margeride and Gévaudan. These names are recalling a traditionnal France now fading away everywhere. There is much poetry and nostalgia in Lozère. The features are simple: Wonderful wild landscapes. Amusing little towns. Superb rivers and unusual unforgettable hotels.

Come with us, discover l'Aubrac and la Lozère -

Unlike the neighbour spots that look close on the map, Aubrac et Lozère are situated on a high plateau (alt 1300 meters sometimes) hosting slow starting rivers. The earliest date to choose this destination should be by late May, early June. July is a wonderful month up there.

Aubrac was noted # 4 on the map, and Lozère # 5.


Come October...

Particularly suited for the late season

The general trout closing in the south of France is the 3rd Sunday of September. At some places, grayling remain open much later. There are not many good fishing spots for grayling in France but here is one of the bests. This is also where is found our most original hotel suggestion. A whole XVIth centrury hamlet turned into a luxurious hotel. Also one of our best fishing friends is guiding in this area.

Enjoy the beautiful autumn, discover the Upper Loire, Allier (It was noted # 3 on the map).

Upper Loire, Allier, was noted # 3 on the map



Under the volcano. Salers, is an amazing town where old stone lovers can spend a lifetime exploring the narrow streets and examining the old buildings. It is set in real mountain in the park of the Auvergne volcanos. It is a setting of unusual landscapes. Vichy is a famous spa resort and also features a splendid golf course. From Vichy or from the river Sioule, the volcanos are forming the background view. This river of high reputation is of very easy reach from Clermont Ferrand or Montluçon. We have had people spending there a little time for business. A week end on la Sioule was a very pleasant countryside break involving not too much time on the road.

Try our outsider Auvergne destinations,

La Sioule and Salers are noted #1 & # 2 on the map.

We are leaving apart the destinations # 9-Corrèze, Plateau de Millevache & 10-Périgord, Dordogne - These places are geographically in the Massif Central but touristically already in the South-West. You will find them in our South-West section.


GASTRONOMIE - Littérature - R. L. Stevenson and the Cévènnes

A light menu starring...
Jambon d'Auvergne, saucissons de Lanarce, boeuf de l'Aubrac, aligot, tomme de Laguiole, roquefort des grands causses, pélardons, chestnut pastries of the Cévènnes, and wines of Ardèche.


Le boeuf de l'Aubrac !

as venerated in Laguiole... only the knife of the same name is missing


Founded in 1882,

Clément Faugier based in Privas -Ardèche- still is the world leading producer of excellent chestnut purées or jams


Not just a simple walk....

but working on Roquefort cheese....


Travels with a donkey in the Cévènnes... By Robert Louis Stevenson

Travels with a donkey in the Cévènnes...
By Robert Louis Stevenson

There is a sort of fan-club for Scottish writer R.L. Stevenson, (also) author of Treasure Island and The Strange Case of Dr. Jekyll and Mr. Hyde. This turns to be a devotion in the Cévènnes, where his travel book with a donkey produced a great effect. It is not so usual that notorious foreigners mention the Cévènnes.

A lot of places now claim to be on the Stevenson's trail, and in fact still a lot of people from the world over, make this sort of pilgrimage on footsteps of Stevenson. His route follows most of the rivers I recommend for fly fishing. Shame on me, I haven't read the book and I cannot say if he actually fished during his trip. (It was off season in Sept 1878). All I know is that the donkey -a she- was called Modestine, and that his trail passed by Landos, Langogne, Luc, Labastide, Chasseradès, le Bleymard, then to the vallée du Tarn by le Pont de Monvert and Florac, ending in Saint Jean du Gard on Oct 3rd 1878.

All tourist office have plenty of readings in English to give away about the trail, but the book itself is probably one of the best readings to bring for a holiday in this area.
Book and editorial reviews easily found on