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Provence is a region mostly known for places like Nice, Cannes, Monte Carlo, or Saint Tropez. Another Provence
is emerging thanks to authors like Peter Mayle or Patricia Wells. But there is a third one.
A Provence of fishers and hunters is hidden in the backountry of the buoyant beaches. And it is a wonderful
world to discover along with an outstanding setting.
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In April the vineyards are still naked...
... but almond trees are blooming. An excellent time for fly fishing
and touring is now starting
In Provence, the Climate is warm and dry. The earth is red and stony. The streams are usually limestone rivers
flowing across thyme and rosemary scented hills. Plane trees give shadow to village places, olive trees and cypresses
make décor complete. The wine and the gastronomy were already famous in the time of the ancient Greeks and
Romans. They left in exchange many architectural treasures and inspiration.
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Readings downpage under
our best proposals.... Gastronomie Provençale - See also downpage: "Fishing for Provençale fish
soup from a boat departing from the port of Saint-Raphaël..." and the recipe of the famous soupe de poisson
de roche.
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in Provence...
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La Sorgue
La sorgue is not as wild as meant above. In fact this river is flowing in an environment
boasting of maybe 3000 years of sophisticated civilization. Avignon of course but most tiny village have kept some
heritage of the Roman time. The river Sorgue is clearly a must to the flyfisherman who wants to say that he fished
some of the most beautiful rivers in the world... Go to the Sorgue
Le Verdon
Le Verdon is much different. Even visitors from Colorado have been impressed by
the scenery of the gorges du Verdon. The river sometimes flows under 700 meters high narrow cliffs. The human surrounding
is a wonderful succession of charming small villages. There is an excellent choice of quality hotels and even a
outstanding golf course. Go to the Verdon
L'Esteron
We had to find a title so we took the Esteron. In fact the backcountry of Nice offers
many wild rivers. To name a few: La Vésubie, La Tinée, Le Boréon, le Var, the Upper Verdon
and the valley of l'Ubaye are superb goals for a day out. In this area, the hills of Provence are becoming rugged
mountains already considered as southern Alpes. Go to the Esteron
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Rough situation map
Paris-Lyon 450 kms - Paris-Marseille 750 kms.
1-La Sorgue - 2-Le Verdon - 3-L'Esteron
From Paris, taking the Highway Autoroute du Sud means almost the day on
the road. The new train TGV-Méditerranée covers
Paris-Marseille in slightly more than 3hours.
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Readings....
Do not miss on the page for la Sorgue a really nice text about:
FLY FISHING IN PROVENCE
Courtesy of Tom Mann for Gourmetfly.com. Tom is a keen American writer and fly fisherman
sharing his time between Montana and Provence...
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The source of La Sorgue in Fontaine de Vaucluse
Picture (and many others) courtesy of Ann & John D. Moore
Here in the vineyards of the Mont Ventoux
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Gastronomie in Provence
What defines best the cuisine of Provence is the combination of love and simplicity. Some will claim the
influence of the sun but those are certainly not staying there in the winter. Love because more than anybody else,
the Provençal needs to share good moments with friends and family. Simplicity because he doesnt like to
worry to much. As he will have friends so often at his table he will not launch complicated fabrications. And also
because he is a gifted man -this region gives everything and everything is good- no sophistication is required for the cuisine provençale. The good cook must
only respect the personnality of each product. In quality and variety, nothing compares to a street market in Provence.
This is maybe where the sun interferes. A fruit or a vegetable like a peach or a tomato in Provence will most often
taste...as it should do... if you see what I mean. And quite clearly also the good wines are a gift of the sun.
One last word on love, I say "the Provençal" but in my mind, I see all these wonderful charming
women of all ages. They are the soul of the Provençale cuisine. Maybe that makes a difference.
Fish Soup fishing
Fishing for small colourful rock-fish (girelles, roucaus, sarans) and bigger species
at early morning from a boat departing from Saint-Raphaël. There is more fun and gastronomy involved than
sport in this experience. Taking the sea at dawn from a small provençal port is an memorable experience
alone but big fish like dorades, pageots, sars or sea-bass loup are also caught and will be delighted
to end up on a BBQ with a bunch of herbs from the hills. This experience is obviously more enjoyable for fishers
who are renting a house than for those staying at hotels. Though, I doubt that many hotels will refuse to cook
your catches if you ask nicely (and firmly).
Season
All spring and summer.
Price
Price per angler 60 euros per session.
limited to 3 anglers
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Recipe of the provençale fish chowder
- From our page of recipes -
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La soupe de poissons de roche
A best seller of French cuisine & the pride of the young fishers
I have noticed among foreign visitors that the fish soup
prepared like in Provence, always meets an incredible success. This dish
looks like wizard work that only a few Grand-chefs cand do but the reality is
much simpler. It is actually one of the easiest dishes that can be obtained
with a mixture of love and simple products. Why love ? 1st because you
should put some in anything you cook, and 2nd because the fish soup is THE
PRIDE of very young fishermen. In my own memory, "La soupe de poissons" is
probably the most beautiful fisherman souvenir. When you're 10 years old,
anything you hook around 3 inches long is already big game fishing and
going back home with a plastic bucket full of shiny prays make you feel
like... Well nothing compares ! In the future "perfect world" some people
are building, young kids will probably be told that it is cruel to go
fishing, but before this delicious moment you can still enjoy your summer
holiday, waiting for the "fishermen's return" and get prepared to another
pride: Preparing la "Soupe de Poissons".
You need a kid's bucket of very fresh, non silty (1) small fish. Olive oil.
Two big potatoes, two big tomatoes, 1 big onion, 2 or 3 garlic "teeth",
salt, pepper, a bit of saffron, thyme, bay leaf, and 1/2 pint of water for
each person.
Get roughly rid of fish bowels but keep heads and tails and all the rest.
Heat your olive oil with the garlic, the onions and smoothly add the
fish and let it fry for a short while. Add the tomatoes and potatoes that
you have cut into small parts.
When it is all warm "singing" enough, put the water and season accordingly
with salt, pepper, saffron, thyme, bay leaf etc...
Boil until the moment the potato pieces are starting to disappear.
Pass it all through a strainer, taste and add salt or pepper
if needed.
It must be served with slices of French baguette, toasted in the pan with
olive oil and garlic. You can also put on the table grated "gruyère" cheese
that you spread over soup and toasts, in the plate and this special spicy
mayonnaise called "rouille". La "rouille" is obtained very simply by making
a normal mayonnaise in which you incorporate a mashed garlic clove plus a
bit of saffron making the "rust" colour.
I am not sure that all kids will enjoy the dish but adults surely will
especially if a chilled rosé or dry white good wine comes along. But all
kids will be proud to see parents and friends enjoying the result of their hard
fishing days.
(1) Small colorful sea "rock-fish" like in the Mediterranean sea are the best.
However, almost any fish can be used. Almost each region of France has its
"soupe" and all species of fish are used.
I hope to obtain soon pictures of these fish to show you.
Traditional fishers boats named pointus in the port of La Madrague - Les
Lecques.
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